The annual check, in order
Walk the perimeter with binoculars before climbing anything. Look for backed-out screws — they show as raised heads or dark rings. Check the ridge line for compressed or missing foam closures. Look at pipe boots, which perish faster than anything else on the roof. Check that valleys and gutters are clear, because trapped debris holds moisture against the coating. Only then consider getting up there, and only on a dry day with proper footwear.
Backed-out screws are normal, not a defect
Panels expand and contract daily; over fifteen to twenty years a proportion of fasteners work loose. This is expected on any exposed-fastener roof. The fix is straightforward — re-torque what is loose and replace anything with a perished washer, ideally with a slightly larger diameter screw so it bites fresh material. Left alone, each loose screw is a hole in your roof waiting for a hard rain.
What is cosmetic and what is not
Chalking and mild fading of the coating are cosmetic — the steel underneath is unaffected. Minor oil-canning, the slight waviness in flat panel areas, is a visual characteristic rather than a fault. What genuinely matters: rust at cut edges or fastener holes, compressed closures at the ridge, perished pipe boots, and any panel that has lifted at a lap. Those four are worth acting on.
When repair stops making sense
If more than a modest proportion of fasteners are failing and the coating has broken down at multiple points, you are maintaining a roof at the end of its service life. At that stage, re-roofing over the existing panels is often cheaper than continuing to chase leaks. We will tell you honestly which situation you are in rather than selling you a full roof you do not need yet.